I hired a car to get over to the spectacular prehistoric stone fort of Dún Aonghasa, which is perched on the cliff edge of the island. After setting aside a healthy fear of heights, I crawled on my belly right to the edge to get a good look. I was gazing literally straight down at the ocean some 100m below. It was sunny, windy, beautiful, simultaneously exhilarating and scary in a primal way.








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